Spantik Peak is known by various names all depicting different aspects of its beauty and grandeur. The northwestern face on the Nagar side with its bright red color of golden pillar is called "Ghenish Chhish", which in Brushaski (local language) means Golden Mountain. Ghinesh in Broshaski also means Queen. The peak is so majestic and beautiful that the local people call it Queen Mountain. Conway named it as Golden Parri, which means Golden Fairy and some call it Pyramid Mountain too. The peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif near Barpu and Garumbar glaciers.
The first attempt to climb the peak was made in 1903 via the Southeast ridge by Dr. and Mrs. Workman. They ascended up to within 330 meters of the summit. The same route was used by five German climbers headed by Kramer when they made the first ascent in 1955. Some teams have used snowshoes to cross the flat and huge plateau higher up. British climbers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climbed the Northwest golden pillar of Spantik in 1987, but they returned via the prominent Southwest spur.
Most recently Spantik 7027 has been a favorite of climbers for training themselves for higher objectives. Lying to the south of the great Hispar glacier and standing above upper Chogolungma, Spantik offers an attractive climb. The approach path to the beautiful campsites along the Chogolungma Glacier offers vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks. The climb along the Southeast ridge is easily achievable amongst 7000m summits in the Karakorum. The ridge rises 2700m over its 8-km length affording the several safe campsites. It is a straight ascent with a gradient of 30º to 45º with a mixture of some tough and easy patches. The Southwest route also goes along a snow ridge of moderate angularity. The summit on clear days presents grand views of neighboring Rakaposhi, Diran, Malubiting, Ultars, Battura Group, Haramosh, the entire Shimshal Mountains, and K2 far beyond and many more. The view is absolutely breathtaking.
Although technically easy but Spantik is for mountaineers who have the experience of climbing as independent roped parties on snow and glaciers and at least have been on some smaller peaks of AD level. High altitude experience and an excellent physical condition as well as regular practice are required to be on this expedition.
Day 01 : Arrive Islamabad, transfer to hotel,for spantik tour.
Day 02 - 03 : Islamabad - briefing at Ministry of Tourism and prepration for Nanga Parbat expedition.
Day 04 : Drive to Chilas, overnight at hotel.
Day 05 : Drive to Skardu. Overnight at hotel.
Day 06 : Skardu- preparations and acclimatization.
Day 07 : Drive to Arandu, overnight camping.
Day 08 : Trek via Chogo Lungma glacier to Spantik base camp.
Day 09 - 25 : CLIMBING SPANTIK
Day 26 - 28 : Trek back from Spantik base camp to Arandu.
Day 29 : Drive to Skardu, overnight at hotel.
Day 30 : Skardu, overnight at hotel.
Day 31 : Drive to Chilas, overnight camping.
Day 32 : Drive to Islamabad, overnight at hotel.
Day 33 : Islamabad- debriefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 34 : Fly to onward destination.
ISB/KDU or V.V. economy class airfare is US$ 75 per person one way. The airfare is subject to change without notice by the Airline. In case of cancellation of flight we will be pleased to provide surface transfer in the same cost of airfare if the group consists of more than 5 pax. For 04 pax group the additional transfer charges will be US$ 20 per person one way.
Royalty fee is US$ 1250 (50% concession) for a party of 1-7 persons and US$ 150 (50% concession) for each additional member.
The High Altitude porter would be paid US$ 20 per day per HAP upto BC and US$ 30 per day in and above BC in addition to his climbing kit. In lieu of kit USD 800 can be paid. The transport charges from their homes to Skardu and back and lodging/food at Skardu would cost US$ 85 per HAP. Food during trek and at BC plus porterage to carry his personal belongings to/from BC will be US$ 550 per HAP.